Robalini's Note: In honor of my recent visit to Chicago, a little bit about Chicago's favorite dish: pizza. http://www.newcitychicago.com/chicago/5337.html A Pizza History Charting the rise of Chicago's pie David Witter NewCityChicago.com (2006-05-09) Taylor Street, the late 1890s. The neighborhood of Italian immigrants, largely from Naples, is packed with handcarts and makeshift stands selling fruit, vegetables, olive oil and bread. Speaking mostly in Italian, they buy, sell, argue and barter, when suddenly a man walks onto the street pushing a cart holding two copper washtubs. Their bottoms are packed with charcoal, keeping round pies of bread, tomato, spices and cheese hot. Walking near Taylor and Racine, he sells these pies for two cents each, and the people seem to like them. Little does he know that he is America's first pizza vendor, and in a hundred years those few cents would turn into a multi-billion dollar industry. Pizza migrated from Naples to America via Chicago and Taylor Street, but according to "The History of Pizza," that was just one in many Chicago events that shaped the round pie. Chicago also claims to be the birthplace of both the deep dish and stuffed pizza. Pizza itself goes back as far as to BC times, when Virgil's "Aeneid" mentions flat flour cakes, and evidence of the same was also found in the ashes of Pompeii. But pizza did not really get rolling until 1522, when tomatoes were brought to Naples from Peru. Known as "pizzaioli," it was a peasant dish, until King Umberto I (1844-1900) took a liking to it. In order to duplicate the colors of the Italian flag, it was fashioned out of mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, taking it one step closer to the dish we know today. The honor of the first American pizza parlor goes to Gennaro Lombardi's "Patraca dela Pizza" on New York's Spring Street, which is still open today. Not integrated into the American mainstream, the tomato pie remained as an ethnic enclave until 1943. That's when Chicagoan Ike Sewell opened Pizzeria Uno at 29 East Ohio. The key to this recipe was the crust. Baked in thick cast-iron pans in giant ovens, Uno's deep-dish crust revolutionized pizza. Sixty-five years later, Uno's, with its dark cavernous booths, is a landmark. Other surviving pioneer pizza parlors in Chicago include the Home Run Inn. Originally started as a bar at 31st and Kildare in 1923, Nick Perrino, the son-in-law of the original owners, came up with an idea and started serving a medium-crust pie in 1947. Times were good and the small bar became crowded. Eventually demand got to the point where Perrino introduced another concept to the Chicago area--frozen pizzas. The 1950s and early sixties were the glory days for the nationwide expansion of pizza. At that time, Italian-Americans were the rage, and stars like Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin ("the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie") ruled Hollywood and Las Vegas while Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida rivaled Marilyn Monroe with their exotic beauty. Pizza was the new and trendy dish. A novelty like the hula-hoop or yoyo, its ease of cooking and the fact that you could eat it without utensils made it ideal for parties. Also, unlike hot dogs and hamburgers, pizza tastes good cold. As a child in the 1970s, I grew up next to Franks Pizzeria on North Clark Street. I can still remember the smell of the pizzas blowing from the exhaust fan into my room in hot summer nights. Frank's was like hundreds of corner joints throughout Chicago selling pizza, chicken, ribs, Italian beef, frozen raviolis, etc. In order to break this pattern, the owners of Nancy's Pizza took the recipe from an Easter pie called Scarciedda and introduced another Chicago first, the stuffed pizza, in 1971. Today Chicago has pizza any way you want it. Thick, thin, greasy, stuffed, wood-oven-baked, topped with vegetables, smoked meats, exotic cheeses and, of course, the old standbys mozzarella, pepperoni and sausage. If only the pushcart vendor on Taylor Street was alive to see it all today. *** http://www.newcitychicago.com/chicago/5338.html The Pizza Issue Pizza Chicago: The "Classics" and Beyond NewCityChicago.com (2006-05-09) Pizza is personal. In my family, growing up, this exercise in breaking bread together somehow managed to always be special. That is, virtually the only form of restaurant dining I can remember before high school, pizza was also the everyday choice of both father and sons. I still crave mom's Chef Boy-Ar-Dee pizza from the box, jazzed up with ground beef and mozzarella cheese; the only time we were allowed to drink bottles of pop with dinner. "Pizza day" was the only day I'd forsake the brown bag for a school lunch. Pizza was special. I fondly remember visits to the candlelight and checkered tablecloth of Valentino's in Lincoln, Nebraska, where my dad was in grad school and I was in grade-school; it might have been all we could afford on a student salary, but it was likely all we aspired to. Pizza passion ran fast and deep. After dad completed his studies, we moved to Joliet. Visits to Chicago, a few times a year, were invariably for pizza, invariably Gino's East, and often with out-of-town visitors in tow. Long before I slept a night in this city, I was intimate with its. When I moved here for college, my pizza palate expanded to encompass many of the offerings that the Greatest Pizza Town in the World offers. And that's the lesson that adulthood has brought me: there is no single "best" pizza, but rather a pizza for every mood, and for every taste. If a New Yorker tells you that the pizza back east is better, go ahead and just smile, patronizingly. What they mean is that they miss the memories attached to the pizza-eating of their youth. Because pizza is personal. (Brian Hieggelke) The Pizza Issue was written by Emerson Dameron, Brian Hieggelke, Megan Lee, Tom Lynch, Michael Nagrant, James VanOsdol, Ray Pride, Jenny Seay and David Witter Pizza Chicago: The "Classics" and Beyond Chicago's neighborhoods abound with pizza. Here, our designated devoures share their favorites. THE "CHICAGO-STYLE" CLASSICS Edwardo's Natural Pizza With a zesty tomato sauce, a whole-wheat crust option and creative favorites like stuffed spinach or pesto pizza, Edwardo's is one of Chicago's stuffed-pizza stalwarts. With a Printers Row location just two blocks from my home, it tends to be a favorite for out-of-town guests. Sometimes hit-or-miss, but when it's good, it's great. (BH) 521 S. Dearborn, (312)939-3366; 1321 East 57th, (773)241-7960; 1212 N. Dearborn, (312)337-4490;; 2664 N. Halsted, (773)871-3400; plus suburban locations--see www.edwardos.com. Gino's East Legendarily started by a couple of taxi drivers inspired by the Uno's success, Gino's East in its sorely missed Streeterville location was my first Chicago pizza mecca--its cramped, graffiti-covered confines were part of the spectacle. The pizza's the same at the new, more spacious River North location, but the ruins of the garish Planet Hollywood in which it's situated just don't capture the same original charm. (BH) 633 N. Wells, (312)943-1124; 2801 N. Lincoln, (773)327-3737; 8725 W. Higgins Road, (773)444-2244; plus several suburban locations--see www.ginoseast.com. Giordano's Even the most diehard carb-counters will be hard-pressed to resist the award-winning stuffed pizza. The dough is baked to a golden-brown hue, encircling a mountain for fresh toppings and cheese, smothered with tomato sauce seasoned with a perfect blend of basil and garlic. One slice can make a meal. (JS) Fourteen Chicago and numerous suburban locations--see http://www.giordanos.com. Lou Malnati's The battle of Chicago deep-dish pizza will not be won with cheese or ingredients, it will be won with crust... butter crust... melt-in-your-mouth butter crust. Each choke-a-horse slice is rich enough to be the whole of your entree, but why stop at just one? You only live once, and Lou's is as good as it gets. (JVO) 3859 W. Ogden, (773)762-0800; 958 W. Wrightwood, (773)832-4030; 439 N. Wells, (312)828-9800; plus numerous suburban locations--see www.loumalnatis.com. Pizzeria Uno/Pizzeria Due This is the one that started them all and, though it's now part of an East Coast (!) restaurant chain, both Chicago locations reside in their original converted Near North mansions. Unfortunately, the grafitti was cleaned up a couple of years ago, most likely to bring the décor of Uno's in line with its chain brethren, but no one else has a Due's. And the deep-dish pizza is as good as ever. (BH) Uno: 29 E. Ohio, (312)321-1000; Due: 619 N. Wabash, (312)943-2400; plus several suburban locations--see www.unos.com. AUBURN-GRESHAM Vito & Nick's Established in 1932 and kept in the family for three generations, this South Side parlor gets much of its rep for its warm, gruff 'tude. Of course, character isn't enough to make the "cracker thin crust" pizza tasty, but the pies manage that on their own. Call ahead for special events, usually coinciding with major holidays. (ED) 8433 S. Pulaski, (773)735-2050. BRIDGEPORT Connie's Pizza This Bridgeport institution cum local chain offers perhaps the most suburban of urban settings, with its gargantuan, Olive Gardenesque quarters and ample parking situated where Chinatown meets Bridgeport. What that means is it's great place for family gatherings with small kids and cranky grandparents. The pizza's the main attraction, preferably in its original middleweight crust, with a tangy tomato sauce and a killer heaping of cheese. The small outdoor café is a nice oasis after a Sox game, even if the traitors are the official pizza of the Cubs as well. (BH) 2373 S. Archer, (312)266-6437; plus various other locations in the suburbs--see www.conniespizza.com. BRIGHTON PARK Falco's A medium-sized corner spot with a bar and tables and a layout that hasn't changed much since the days of disco, Falco's in Brighton Park is surrounded by working-class bungalows, auto dealerships and Kelly High School. The pizza is New York style, with long, triangular slices thin enough that they sag unless supported by a hand or plate. Like great New York pizza, the cheese tends to be a bit tangier and the sausage is full of fennel. Sometimes you see the grease swimming on top of the slice, but that doesn't matter. For all the bus drivers, cops, construction workers and an ethnic mix that matches the city, Falco's is more than a neighborhood spot, it is a destination. (DW) 2806 W. 40th Place, (773)523-7996. DUNNING Caponie's Café and Pizzeria A line spilling out the door is not uncommon at this place on weekends. People know that the wood-fired oven creates pizza well worth the wait, and they clamor for a table where they can devour slices of crisp, cheesy goodness. (JS) 3350 N. Harlem, (773)804-9024. Mr. Beef Not really known for its pizza--what would give that away?--Mr. Beef offers one of the biggest surprise slices on the Northwest side of the city. Basic premise here--choices of cheese, pepperoni and sausage only--but the overabundant amount of grease by the slice is overwhelming in its great unhealthiness. If you really think nothing of yourself, we suggest you get a beef and a slice for your meal--enough edible evil to clog the Chicago River, let alone your arteries. (TL) 3917 N. Harlem, (773)283-7444. LAKEVIEW Chicago's Pizza Delivering until 5am, Chicago's Pizza could serve gruel and we'd still love them for being there in our hours of need. Pleasantly gruel-free, Chicago's Pizza is a much fresher-tasting option than other late-night pizza go-to's. Avoid the drunken temptation to go deep dish, and stick with thin crust. (JVO) 3006 N. Sheffield, (773)755-4030; 3114 N. Lincoln, (773)477-2777; 1919 W. Montrose, (773)348-1700. Pompei Bakery See Little Italy listing. 2955 N. Sheffield, (773)325-1900. LINCOLN PARK Amato's Amato's is the perfect pizza place for any vegetarian in the Lincoln Park or downtown areas. Stuffed spinach pizza (a combination of spinach, mozzarella cheese and fresh herbs) with just a sprinkle of parmesan is a mouthwatering treat when eaten freshly delivered. Reheating makes the spinach gooey, but cold leftovers make a perfect breakfast. (ML) 953 W. Willow (Clybourn & Sheffield), (312)640-1299. Bricks Chicago One of the strangest choices of location for a pizza joint--in the dark basement of an apartment building--Bricks has served Lincoln Park for nearly a decade now. Thin and crunchy, Bricks' pizzas--which are only served in select kinds--match well with the beer selection, with two-dozen in bottles and premier draft selections. Plus, it's open late on weekends, serving the slice-craving DePaul crowd. (TL) 1909 N. Lincoln, (312)255-0851. Pequods Named after the whaling ship from Moby Dick, you'll go overboard for the deep dish. Baked in cast-iron pans blackened by decades of seasoning, the overflowing cheese emerges from the oven as a halo of carmelized crust, lending a crispy nutty counterpoint to the pizza's gooey interior. (MN) 2207 N. Clybourn, (773)327-1512. Tomato Head Pizza Kitchen The BBQ chicken pizza features Evanston rib and chicken stalwart Hecky's sweet smoky BBQ sauce with red onion and spiced chicken. If smoke's not your thing, but you like dancing on Grecian beaches with Anthony Quinn, order up the ZorbaZah, topped with creamy feta, kalamata olives and tomatoes. (MN) 1001 W. Webster, (773)404-8010. LITTLE ITALY Aurelio's This franchise of the legendary Homewood original opened in a low-profile location near the post office a couple of years back, and you won't want to dine in if the idea of killing time in a Holiday Inn restaurant scares you, but get it delivered and find out why those of us who grew up on this pizza still crave it on a regular basis. A thin-crust pie with a thick helping of cheese, the secret's in the sauce: flavorful and tangy and amply applied. We're partial to pepperoni or sausage and onion. (BH) 506 W. Harrison, (312)994-2000; plus dozens of suburban locations--see www.aureliospizza.com. Bacci Pizzeria Gigantic slices of pie-cut pizza--probably not larger than your head, but definitely bigger than your face--serve as Bacci's trademark, as one slice is usually enough to fill you up for several hours. Your basic toppings apply--sausage, pepperoni, veggies--but what's on the pizza doesn't really matter, as you will surely focus all your attention on just finishing the damn thing. (TL) 2248 W. Taylor, (312)455-9000; plus eleven other city and suburban locations--see www.baccipizza.com. Pompei Bakery Established in Little Italy in 1909, the pizzeria took its name from the nearby parish, Our Lady of Pompeii. If you like your pizza wrapped Stromboli style, order up a thick slice of the "Poor Boy" pizza strudel brimming with orange-neon-paprika-streaked capicola, salami, ham, tomatoes and cheese. (MN) 1531 W. Taylor, (312)421-5179. LOOP Pizanos See River North listing. 61 E. Madison, (312)236-1777. RIVER NORTH Bella Luna Café The amazing quality of Bella Luna pizza has nothing to do with toppings or cheese--it's all about the crust. Although Chicago-style deep dish is available, thin crust is the way to go. No matter what's on the pizza, from plain cheese to anchovies and garlic, the only part Bella's patrons remember is the crispy, perfect, Pillsburyesque quality of the crust. (ML) 731 North Dearborn, (312)751-2552. Pizanos This is the pie for people who believe life is a destination. One slice and you'll have peace of mind that you found the best deep dish in Chicago. The rich pastry-like butter crust and sweet San Marzano plum tomato sauce elevate this pie in the pantheon of Chicago `Za. (MN) 864 N. State, (312)751-1766. Rizzata's Rizzata's tagline "Neighborhood Pizza...Like You Remember" is an understatement since the only people getting pizza as good as Rizzata's would have come straight from Italy. With a perfect blend of seasonings and high-quality cheeses, this place is a mouth-watering favorite. (ML) 300 W. Grand, (312)832-1051. RIVER WEST Pie-Eyed Pizzeria With a focus on carry-out, Pie-Eyed's unrivaled hours of operation on weekends--open until 5am on Friday, 6am on Saturday--fills the bellies of the late-night club crowd who just can't handle another burrito or a trip to the 24-hour diner. Thin-crust and pan pizza are both served, and all topping choices are recommended. (TL) 1111 W. Chicago, (312)243-3735. SOUTH LOOP Pat's Pizzeria The menu says it's "not affiliated with Pat's Pizza at 2679 N. Lincoln" but if you notice the pizza similarities and ask, you'll find out they're brothers. Talk about sibling rivalry. In any case, we're hooked on the thin and crispy "white" pizza made with four cheeses and garlic. (BH) 638 S. Clark, (312)427-2320. Pizza-Ria The one thing New York City had on Chicago pizza was the ease and ubiquity of the pizza-by-slice culture (usually sold at one of many unaffiliated "Ray's"). Pizza-Ria, called Got Pizza the previous time we visited, is doing its best to change that with its growing chain of slice emporiums. Huge slices of thin, crispy pizza offer less sauce than some prefer, but also a lot less grease than its New York inspiration. (BH) 719 S. State, (312)957-1111; plus seven other city and suburban locations--see www.pizza-ria.com Trattoria Caterina A small neighborhood Italian restaurant makes large thin-crust pizzas that ooze authenticity (and cheese, of course). Crispy crust and flavorful sauce make this a classic choice that never lets you down or fails to impress your guests. (BH) 616 S. Dearborn, (312)939-7606. UKRAINIAN VILLAGE Bella's The computer at Bella's has my girlfriend flagged as a spinach lover. A bit creepy, perhaps, but it's worth it. Even for greasy, no-nonsense, neighborhood fare, the values are fantastic. The thin-crust pies are cut into small squares; although some pizza snobs hate this, it's perfect for small gatherings. (ED) 1952 W. Chicago, (773)252-0505. Cleo's Nifty Chicago-Damen neighborhood joint Cleo's boasts quality bar-food with eats specials each day of the week; Thursdays are when the rich, personal-sized pizzas, with fresh hand-rolled crusts, all go for $4. Bests: pico de gallo, a three-cheese veggie entry, BBQ chicken and the unlikely bacon and blue cheese. (RP) 1935 W. Chicago, (312)243-5600. Pizza Metro Pizza Metro's European-style pizza--super-thin and crispy, dripping with cheese and a minimal amount of sauce--makes the venue one of the more unique spots in town for the dish. If you don't have the stomach for an entire pizza, slices are made-to-order, with whatever topping you desire. For the bigger, indoor-restaurant atmosphere, hit the Ashland spot; for patio-seating this summer, go to Division. (TL) 1707 W. Division, (773)278-1753; 925 N. Ashland, (773)772-3267. UPTOWN Spacca Napoli The crust on these wood-fired pizzas is a study in perfect imperfection. Airy and crunchy, with bits of char and lines from the floor of the brick oven, the Margherita topped with creamy fior de latte mozzarella, anise-perfumed basil and zingy tomatoes conjures an afternoon in Naples. (MN) 1769 W. Sunnyside; (773)878-2420. WEST LOOP Artopolis With its shared Mediterranean character, perhaps no cuisine is better equipped to offer a sublime variant on the Italian pizza than the Greek. And Artopolis' wood-fired pies deliver on the concept with fine olive oils and a mix of Greek cheeses that make the pizza at once familiar and unique and utterly delicious. (BH) 306 S. Halsted, (312)559-9000. Fulton Lounge You might be drawn to the stylish yet comfortable confines of this West Loop cocktail lounge, but we can't resist the pizza. Thin wood-fired pizzas come in a surprising number of offerings, from the simple but succulent margherita to the quattro stagioni, made with olives, mushrooms, artichokes and cured Italian ham. We keep telling ourselves that we need to try out Follia, the adjacent restaurant that makes the pizzas for the lounge, but we're always too damn comfortable and sated to move. (BH) 955 W. Fulton, (312)942-9500. Tomato Head Pizza Kitchen See Lincoln Park listing. 945 W. Randolph, (312)226-1616. WEST RIDGE Candlelite Candelite's fifties-era blinking martini-glass sign beckons the lonely pizza traveler. Try the saltine-like thin crust with jalapeno, wild mushrooms, or sweet carmelized onions. Accompany your pie with garlic fries that feature a splash of acidic red wine vinegar and enough chopped cloves to make Emeril blush. (MN) 7452 N. Western, (773)465-0087. Gullivers Pizza While we dig the excessive chandelier decor inside, it's Gullivers' outdoor dining that keeps us driving towards the Evanston border all summer long. The patio is equal parts dining zen and kickass backyard party, and the waits are nowhere as insufferable as they probably should be. The pizza rocks, too. (JVO) 2727 W. Howard, (773)338-2166. WICKER PARK Piece Few things go better together than pizza and beer. Wicker Park's famous Rick Nielsen-co-owned brew factory serves New Haven-style pies with an assortment of choices for toppings--everything from your basic pepperoni to the adventurous mashed potatoes. Reasonably priced, large pizzas should fill up a table of you and four of your friends, especially with all that beer available. (TL) 1927 W. North, (773)772-4422. Santullo's While Wicker Park's Santullo's is mostly known for its sandwiches, the massive, NYC-style pizza holds its own, served by the slice and by the pie, with a specific Santullo's Pizza of the Day for you to use as a guide, if you're just not sure what you want. If you want to go basic--that is, not dive into the goat cheese, homemade meatball or grilled-chicken toppings just yet--the Portabella mushroom and oven-roasted tomatoes should do fine. (TL) 1943 W. North, (773)227-7960. Underdogg If you're not in the mood for tacos from neighboring big brother Flash Taco (nor in the mood for hot dogs, for that matter), Wicker Park's Underdogg serves one of the city's best 4am slices, perfect for when you stumble out of Estelle's or Nick's Beer Garden, craving a cheap $2 slice that you probably won't even remember come mornin'. (TL) 1570 N. Damen, (773)384-4030. SUBURBAN All of the "Chicago Style" listings have multiple suburban locations as well. Freddy's Pizza Al Capone would be right at home at this old-school Cicero deli. Under ruddy, speckled hanging logs of salami, there's always a fresh sheet pizza studded with chunky artichoke hearts or spicy Italian sausage hunks. Soothe the spice with a creamy scoop of espresso-tinged homemade Tiramisu gelato. (MN) 1600 S. 61st Ave., Cicero, (708)863-9289 Pequods See Lincoln Park listing. 8520 Fernald, Morton Grove, (847)470-9161. Perry's Pizza Joynt The décor is "Italian Family Basement" with a stained-glass ceiling that recalls the Sicilian cousin of Louis Comfort Tiffany. Once you're done with a sublime artery-clogging fennel-tinged sausage and pepperoni thin-crust pizza, pour in a few quarters and step up to the vintage Offroad arcade game. (MN) 39 W. North, Northlake, (708)562-5334. Pompei Bakery See Little Italy listing. 17 W. 744 22nd, Oakbrook Terrace, (630)620-0600; 7215 W. Lake St., River Forest, (708)488-9800; 1261 E. Higgins Road, Schaumburg, (847)619-5001.